Photo credit Chris Morgan.
Our Thursday, May 14, 2015, life drawing session featured two new things, a photo shoot that was not part of the drawing experience, and modeling instruction for a first time model.
This coming fall, David Trumbull will be teaching a course in the Textile, Fashion Design and Merchandising Department of the University of Rhode Island. A major part of it will be on the sourcing of the various component parts of a finished garment. Take for example, the narrow elastic fabric that goes into the waistband of underwear and is used for brassiere straps. Some years ago there was a dispute, between apparel retailers and the U.S. textile industry as to whether elastic waistband and brassiere straps were essential components of the garments or were "findings or trimmings." In some cases narrow strips of fabric sewn into or onto a garment are "findings or trimmings." But David argued, from the law, the regulation, and several prior U.S. Customs rulings, that in the case of intimate apparel such as pictured below, they are essential components. At stakes was potentially millions of dollars in tariff duties the importers would face if David were to prevail.
Photo credit Chris Morgan.
The legal arguments while strong, were not quite enough to win the battle, so David approached it another, more practical way, saying, "They are not findings or trimmings, they are essential components, because this (see photo below) is what happens when you omit an essential element, not a finding or trimming.
The case of the brassiere straps, David won. In the case of the waistbands straps it was a partial win. Customs said brassiere straps were not findings or trimmings and that waistbands were not necessarily so and would have to be decided on a cumbersome case-by-case basis. Since business hates the uncertainty of Customs or any government agency saying "maybe, maybe not" the effect was they didn't even try to use the findings and trimmings exemption for waistbands.
Photo credit Chris Morgan. |
(pose created by David) |
(pose created by David) |
David chose to focus on Jennifer, rendering her in a abstract, streamlined fashion |
Chris created this pose with the models leafing through the pages of the book Art Models 2 |
while John sits nearby, inscrutable. |